Friday, January 31, 2014

Surf Texas

Surf Texas!!
Photos by GScott
surfboard 10ft Flexpig by Gene Cooper of Cooperfish Designs.
surfboard owned by Miles Cooper...

surfing in Texas

it was cold.. wearing a 4mm
i like to pretend im carrying pizzas


you cant do that.. thats not surfing..

tubeshooters and walk the plank

STOKE METER IS FULL

thanks GScott for the photos

Thursday, January 30, 2014

Frankie Hill

Frank Hill is a legend and one of the OG daredevils of skateboarding
ive posted work about him prior and we use to work alot together..
Stoked to get back to SB and work with him for Gullwing..
My long time good friend Erik Hatch shot this fun photo of us after a hard days work..
STOKED!!

Monday, January 27, 2014

Van Life

Took some days off from the blog cause the surf has been pumping!!!!
SD runs to SB runs and every wave inbetween..
Got this shindig goin down in a week down in Texas..
should be a good time.. come out and support the cause.

Thursday, January 23, 2014

THANKS!!


thanks for all the BDay wishes and comments.. STOKED!!
off to get some Bday waves!!
aloha!

Wednesday, January 22, 2014

Brazil

yup.. the times are a changing..
so yes a brazilian is gracing the pages of the blog..
Gabriel Medina rips and John Florence and he changed the game this year.
you must get barreled at pipe and come out and do airs..
enjoy

Tuesday, January 21, 2014

Bombing

Bombing waves everywhere today..
hope you are getting yours..
Chris Ward with a bomb from a few swells back at OTW

Monday, January 20, 2014

Aloha Hawaii

the last day on Oahu i was able to slip out for a few waves at Pipeline before getting on the plane b ack to Cali..

my good friend and legendary shooter Vince Cavataio got these of me surfing it.. 

and YES... it is extremely scary at all times out there and very very dangerous.. 
but a monk seal was cruisng through the lineup all day which is very rare and i was sharing waves with legendary pipeliner Derek Ho and just having an amzing morning :) 
enjoy the shots... 
thank you for all the help, love and continued support tthis year... I have never had a shot (especially from the water out there) so i am THRILLED hahah now i just gotta get one in a really big barrel! :) :) :) 

and got to see my friend from Guatemala and hang out.. she shot some fun photos skating my friends backyard ramp.. :)
what a YEAR!! whew.. lets do it again! 

love and aloha!! 

Sunday, January 19, 2014

Set Up

LOVE me some new set ups.
8.85 Sector 9 deck
Gullwing trucks..
Check out Handplant Skate Shop in Laguna.

Saturday, January 18, 2014

Good Morning

Good morning... good sleep and a great cup of coffee and enjoy the day..

Friday, January 17, 2014

Balance

its all about finding balance in this world..
enjoying some balance the last day in hawaii
photo by Luz Castillo

Tuesday, January 14, 2014

Lineups

Lineups from around the world hahah
Pipeline from above..

Monday, January 13, 2014

Swell Daze

A photo of friend Chris Ward on a good one.

have a great day..

Sunday, January 12, 2014

Aloha

Aloha also means goodbye.

ALOHA HAWAII!!!!

So, another year / season has come and gone and I am off the island in a few days again. So i wanted to share a little on my trip this year.
WOW is all i can say.. One of the best seasons of my life over here..

First and foremost.. THank you to Pete Hodgson for sharing knowledge, your garden, SUP days, friendship and photos..It really meant a lot to me..

Vince Cavataio and your shots of me.. THANKS, I am THRILLED to have imagery from legends like you and Pete whom i have looked up to and been inspired by your imagery for years. (Still to this day) so to grace your lenses and get shots of me surfing is a dream come true.!!! and it makes my mom VERY proud..

Jimbo Yarborough.. Thanks for opening your house and home and insight.. Amazing meals to keep the troops moving, random aloha daily and Coffee every morning!

THE HEN HOUSE!!!! LOVE and friendship and some of the best girls in the world.. Thanks for opening your house and always being there for me.. It was exactly what i needed at the end of a stressful year.. LOVE YOU GIRLS!, your friendship, what you had to teach me and inspiration..thank you. and Chris the token male in the house is rad too. haha

Huge thanks to Gavin Beschen, Billy Fortier and all the athletes, shapers and friends I was blessed to work with this year. Peter King for the epic SUP shot!! ;) Thanks Sector 9 and the team for everything and all the outlets who have bought photos/ videos and continue to buy work hahah !! stoked.
Stoked to make some of the best imagery of my life and watching all of my friends new and old continually push the envelope.

Aloha and thanks!!

Saturday, January 11, 2014

Broken Ribs

Ever seen a photo of someone prior to a broken rib? Julian Wilson gets after it at Pipe and comes up short.. This day was a little intimidating to say the least... Everyone was a sinner this day and everyone paid..

Friday, January 10, 2014

Tom Servais

Tom Servais is rad.. I have always admired his work and its a thrill to get to hang out with him and talk story and work.. Just as a grom growing up seeing his work and i always thought he was one of the best..

Thursday, January 9, 2014

Published Works

Lots of work starting to come to the surface and im stoked and blessed.. Good times and paychecks to follow... Drew Brophy charging Puerto on his SUP in the latest SUP Journal 2 page spread.
and Richard Wolcott of Volcom holds up the latest issue of Ghetto Juice with Gavin Beschens speed blur at Pipeline.. Super stoked as Gavin is the man and has been charging hard this year.. Stoked it payed off for him.. More to come!
SUPER pumped on finally gettin this art work inked from Gavin.. BLESSED

Tuesday, January 7, 2014

Aamion Goodwin

Aamion Goodwin is a rad guy.. He is a Pipeliner and charger and family man.. Stoked to have known him for a while and travel together. Here are a few waves i got of him this year at Pipe..

Monday, January 6, 2014

Positive

Just try and stay positive.

Sunday, January 5, 2014

Graveside

Graveside. Waves went to junk and we got to bucketing.. Stoked to been BBQ and drinkin beerrzzzzz in the bowl.. I really like this place, the energy at the bowl and just everything around it... been a nice change of pace and shooting.. Kyle showed up and started to learn some lines.. Good Times Kyle Thiermann

Friday, January 3, 2014

Puerto Escondido

SUPER blessed to be asked to be a part of this.. http://www.surfersjournal.com/ebook/power-and-place-puerto-escondido some good reading material the early storys of Mexico is why i traveled to Mexico as a kid. those were the stories i saw and i went.. I wanted that!!! WE took buses from TX to Mex.  I think they were Brad Steph's old Surfer mags. I had started traveling there already but after seeing these articles i got deeper into it down there. Got more into getting lost and seeing all of it.. Great to see those articles again and accompanying my photos..?!! . wow..... pretty heavy .. it just hit me. ... it really means a lot to me….. you have no idea how much Brad turning me onto different approaches of surfing and where to go to school in SB and his family and art…. and just a good friend… blessed... 

Thursday, January 2, 2014

Graveside

Graveside is gnarly. . Billy and Tippy built it with some friends.. New Years Eve session enjoy Tippy Billy

Wednesday, January 1, 2014

Film

I miss film..