Friday, November 30, 2012

Meet My Friend Alana Blanchard

Alana absolutely rips... and is not bad on the eyes...
She is a great girl and glad she is doing what she does and doing it well.
Had a great time hanging out with her, Eric G and Bethany this summer and hope to see them again soon on the North shore!!!!
It's raining and raining hard!!! Waiting for the swell to hit again today and get some things wrapped up before hawaii on sunday!! Cheers..

Thursday, November 29, 2012

Incoming Swell

Incoming Swell and I went against something that was tugging at me and looked at a different wave.. It paid off already and more to come.. Really excited.. Yesturday was a tuff travel day but dinner with the devil paid off..
haha just kidding it was with EG and it went great. haha Rain in SoCal means 8 car pile ups and shutting down travel plans..
and these damn punks are lucky bastards.. hahah
Hope you are getting waves!!

Tuesday, November 27, 2012

New Artwork

Travel day tommorrow and just finished this mural for AST Adventures in La Libertad, El Salvador.. Hit up Dave Hall at AST for any interest in coming down here and getting waves.. link:

Few of My Favorite Things

Here are just a few of my favorite things..
surf, barrels, bikinis, big waves, sun, offshore mornings, non hyped swells
and this place..

Monday, November 26, 2012


Consistency... I like to keep some things constant.. like gettin barreled all year!!!!

Sunday, November 25, 2012


got to lurk on the corner store last nite and unwind from the week with clients and hang with mi amigo Juan and the real locals.. . Juan introduces me to the town that i have yet to meet.. and like any small town the corner is where its all going down on the malecon. Local legend and original El Salvadorian surfer and charger talk story about the days of old and big waves and when Gerry Lopez was here shooting.. .. great stories about 16mm films being thrown in the water cause the boys didnt want to pay $40 locals to shoot the point on the biggest and best day ever seen here.. jajajaja.. no leashes and 15-20ft... wow.. so epic.. gonna slip out for a longboard session and meet up with uncle later for some more portraits with the pictures of the waves he caught.. The Texas photographer was "John" .. The Texan photographer was likely Johnny Hill, commonly known as Juan Loma. this was back in '74 or so.... wow.. so many laughs last nite.. hope the surf is picking up there or you are gettin in some fish or feathers..

Saturday, November 24, 2012

Early Morning Cracks

Stoked Juan fired me up to get out there early yesterday.. this was the first wave of the morning and I am stoked to get it!!! Thanks to Juan... i wasn't even goin to surf.. and then a quick rock jump to get some adrenaline goin and pick off a few bombs...
BLESSED MONTH!!! I have been so very blessed this month to be working with such a great gang of people and surfers. If you are interested in El Salvador please contact Dave Hall at AST and get some of the most fun long waves with a great staff and crew!!! Link: I cannot tell you enough the good times, great waves and amazing work we have gotten done while here.. I am truly in love with the country and it's people. Beyond surfing, there are tons of things to do whether it be hiking volcanos, 4 wheel adventures through the mountains, riding motorbikes among vastly gorgeous jungles, zip lining above river gorgeous, visiting the worlds best coffee plantations, fishing and the list goes on and on!!! This has been easily one of the best trips in my life as a photographer and a surfer!! Huge thanks to Dave Hall, Baja Bill, Jorge in El Salvador, Juan Bolivar por todo, Tito and all the La Libertad groms!! Mary Osborne for working so hard and Rodrigo Avila for opening up his house and teaching me so much about the country and coffee!! The staff at both Las Flores and La Libertad!!! They have the best food for every meal and happy to work with you at any time of the day!!! SO BLESSED and stoked to call these people true friends for life… LA BUENA VIDA!!!!!

Friday, November 23, 2012

Meet My Friend Gavin Beschen

Meet My Friend Gavin Beschen
Gavin is one of my all time favorite surfers... and if you get a moment to know him, you will find he is the most the real deal and really down to earth and just epic to be hanging out and surfing with...
His surfing is still one of the best from small waves to epic tubes... here are a few shots of him stomping airs, nailing layback hacks, roundhouse turns to die for and just Gavin being stoked... stoked.....

Thursday, November 22, 2012

Happy Turkey Day!!!

Waves are filling in!! Life is good and the Lord has blessed us with delicious food.. We give thanks and praise!!! Letting a few turkeys off the hook and replacing them with some pescado!! :)

Wednesday, November 21, 2012

Barrels of Fun

Yesturday was sooo fun.. got one amazing wave and there are more on the way!!!! I hope yo u are getting waves too! these aren't the waves i'm surfing right now, but you get the point.

Tuesday, November 20, 2012

Long Travels

and this my friends....... is why you clock days down here waiting..... TUESDAY 11/20 FAIR WEDNESDAY 11/21 FAIR THURSDAY 11/22 FAIR TO GOOD FRIDAY 11/23 GOOD SATURDAY 11/24 GOOD SURF: 3-4 ft + waist to shoulder high occ. 5 ft SURF: 2-3 ft + knee to chest high SURF: 3-4 ft + waist to shoulder high occ. 5 ft SURF: 4-5 ft shoulder to head high occ. 6 ft SURF: 3-5 ft waist to head high Fading SW swell Old SW swell continues to slowly fade out, while a new SW swell starts to build in New/building SW swell, BIGGEST LATE as the swell peaks, offering occasional overhead sets for standouts Holding SW swell Slowly easing SW swell

Monday, November 19, 2012

Mike Black

A while back my friend Mike Black had a party at the beach.. it was awesome...
He surfs Pig boards and that was what the party was about.. getting like minded surfers who enjoy pigs together..
we ate a pig and surfed pigs..
pretty dang fun time... stoked... can't wait til next summer.

Sunday, November 18, 2012

Meet My Friend Jeff Lukasik

Jeff Lukasik rips... I have been working with him for several years now.. He blows away most pros and is hardly known... That kinda stuff always blows my mind... Here are a few shots from the past summer... I hope to take him to Peru and score some lefts this winter..

Saturday, November 17, 2012

Meet My Friend Nate Yeomans

Nate is all time.. I wish he were here surfing with me mow.. aloha all!!

Friday, November 16, 2012


So stoked.. so blessed Tito had the camera and got these super fun shots of me a couple of days ago.. Good times in bath tub esc. water temps... No leash, no crowds..= no worries.
HUGE thanks to Dave and the AST gang for making this trip possible!!! Thanks to Ryan at Nation MFG for making the best boards!!!!

Thursday, November 15, 2012


"It is the darkness that we all encounter as photographers that adds such light to our imagery.." - jon steele
when surfing goes wrong.

Wednesday, November 14, 2012

Bikini Season

Keeping Bikini Season alive!!!! Oliver Kurtz gives the A-OK with Alana, Bethany and friends.!!

Tuesday, November 13, 2012

Joel Parkinson

It all comes down to Pipe... what does that even mean???? I don't really follow contests but love to watch good surfing.. Hope Pipeline gets some amazing waves again this year.. Joel Parkinson does big airs
and can do turns.

Monday, November 12, 2012

Video Clips

Fun bonus to getting a few waves and gettin a few clips.. My new friend Jonathon Riviera shot these from the first day of the swell.. yowza fun frothers I want more. I hope you are getting waves.

Sunday, November 11, 2012

One More

One more photo before it goes flat or wind kicks up.. :)
Dave @ AST shot this photo of me when the swell was picking up... The point wave was fun and some really good 6ft ones coming in... I was proud of this turn and thanks to Dave for shooting this!!!! Blessed.

Saturday, November 10, 2012

Stoke Train Coming

Dave shot some fun photos yesterday of me.. sooo stoked.. twas firing for a stint.. hope you are getting waves.
under the lip hooks, and drawing clean lines..
no handed barrels and good cuba libre's
Turn after turn under the volcanos view

Friday, November 9, 2012

Surf Nazi's Unite

Waves are Pumping and we are all over this SHIT!!!! Hail to Waves!
Surfed a point wave by myself maxing 6-8ft and pretty hairball for sure!!! Life is good and I hope you have waves!! Dave Hall from AST shot this photo.

Thursday, November 8, 2012

Waves Are Pumping

Waves have been pumping the past 2 days.. today was 6ft and good.. stoked to pick off a few... I saw some good waves ridden..
Dave from AST Adventures shot these photos when we rode up the hill yesterday on an awesome tour!!! Been having an amazing trip down here with the AST adventure group!!! thanks for the stoke!!!!