Sun on my skin and offshores to my back! Thats what i felt after i surfed this morning...
Went out this morning, for those who can't, and had a hard time in the early sucked out tide...i really just wanted to say "ok i surfed" and go in and call it a day.. i kept sticking it out even though it was very cold, bitin cold this morning.. The offshore Santa Ana's continued to blow and the tide got better.
I have been more driven lately to find happiness with every session... to find that peace.... my theory has been it only takes one...
today i had 3....
:)
one was flawless and did what the ocean does best.. a surge that when harnessed right, curls over and without fluctuating the body after settin the rail, shoot out clean and untouched....
ride out the back humbly and give thanks.........
i needed that.. my soul needed that....thanks....
