Glorious big green backside glassy barrel.....pig dog with a white lip gaping hallow and dredging....
Straighten out goin against my instinct but if you know the spot, she makes ya do alot of things to avoid gettin hurt....
I thought i was in the clear...
Just really dialing that board in today..... SHIT!!!! SHIT shit!!!
I'm blogging now cause come dawnpatrol I will be back out there surfing, then off to teach a surf lesson in Laguna then down to Sector 9 with RAW HELMET to skate.... whew.... gnarly can't wait!!