Sometimes I'm rich and sometimes I'm poor...

Glorious big green backside glassy barrel.....pig dog with a white lip gaping hallow and dredging....
Straighten out goin against my instinct but if you know the spot, she makes ya do alot of things to avoid gettin hurt....
I thought i was in the clear...

Just really dialing that board in today..... SHIT!!!! SHIT shit!!!
I'm blogging now cause come dawnpatrol I will be back out there surfing, then off to teach a surf lesson in Laguna then down to Sector 9 with RAW HELMET to skate.... whew.... gnarly can't wait!!

Weapons

These are amazing weapons... the short 22 rifle and pistol... I sure would like to know the years these two amazing pieces were made......

Richard Holcomb and friends

San Clemente is beautiful... Here are a few of my favorite shots from the past week..






This is Richard Holcomb.. I finally got a nice photo of him... WIsh he wasn't wearing his glasses here but i am still thrilled none the less. He is shooting with his old Century lens and its awesome... Richard has given me some really great shots before.. (remember the 6ft Lein at Lowers?!) yeah he shot that..

Trevor Thorton

You might remember Trevor from a few earlier posts this past year... I have been working with him the last couple days and he is a good kid...
I'm exhausted from a surf lesson yesturday and a good party.....
Will elaborate here after a nap.. Shot early this morning with Dax and Finn ... will show photos soon.

Griffin Colapinto

Not many people let alone groms get a whole page check out on my blog..
BUT my new little buddy Griffin definately deserves one..

Greating me nice and early with a big smile and a handshacke he was out in the water and stoked...

after surfing he didn't feel like he really "did" anything worthy... I like it when people have that attitude and want to do better... thats a good drive to have!
I was stoked and will be shootin more and more with him. He keeps this attitude and outgoing personality and it will take him far in this life...

Tstreet!!!

Tstreet morning shoot with groms.... gotta love it...
Someone spent some time on this sign.. hahahah

Carissa More MOORE!

haha pretty rad cause here is MORE of Ms. Carissa Moore...
A series of portraits of i shot this season...
fun...

I am bloggin now cause i will be on the beach all day tomorrow... Shooting with quite a few and hoping the waves are good.
enjoy...

Sunny and surf!

Nice start to the day.... Small shoot with Kulia and Lani...
I got a fun wave out there..
playing with my new iphone camera...stoked....

Fun Waves Out fun.

You can always get banged up a little out front so it's nice to be slip out and find a few... got a double barrell (small) but worth the paddle out...

Surfing my Hail Yeah quad for the first time in california and it's really fun and stoked to surf it at other waves as well..
Just a pretty normal day editing photos, diggin for photos for clients and watching the contest at Pipeline....


photos up here soon..

Old and the New and Kinda old

SO... i think this shot of me was when i was 17 at the Mustang Island Jettys.
Sue Sorrell shot this and it was definately one of my turning points for me... Seeing myself doin some of the first airs in that area was rad...Im not claiming i was the first.. but i definately only really tried to do airs!!! pushing the limit and figuring out my board...Great time sand blessed Sue Sorrell shot this and believed in the young surfers in that time...

moving to a few years ago,, two i believe which would be 2008/09 Gscott got this air of mine at Bob Hall Pier...
I like to see the 2 shots side by side... pretty cool to see the 15 year difference surfing can make..
hahah

Published works

Got to taken photos of stuff i have done so i don't have to carry all this heavy paperwork around with me for the rest of my life..
hahaha..

anywho, it was cool as a new photographer to keep all the work that was published but now there is no way.... i usually don't even need to see the final product..hahah... sounds lame but its not... its a job.....
Here is a write up of Morgan Faulkner in Longboard magazine which is no longer around...


A little tanker surfing in the Men's Journal with Ryan Engle


An old checkout from Surf Life for Women magazine



and my first trip/job for Surfer Magazine that was a looooong time ago..

SO yesturday i was blessed, not because it was my birthday.. but i visited my sister in LA... its always nice to see her..
The fact that she was giving me a couch as well as another Birthday cake was more than enough reason to visit!! hahah

but seriously... gorgeous day and i went for a skate at the local park right there....
It was fun... i guess you have to sign in and be a member, full pads etc.... The guy there was super nice to let me skate and i didnt even have to tell him it was my birthday!! hahah..
SO suprisingly, i skated for bout 1 hour and my heel felt ok and i was having a blast with my new found friends who were having a birthday party at the park!!!! Hows the coincidence?!!

So the young girl dropped in on the 5ft quarter pipe, her brother Noah almost did the 4ft and a youngster exclaimed that I was the "nicest older person" who skated there... "Everyone else is a jerk!" he professed.. I was stoked to hear that and couldn't see any reason to get upset at this tiny little park in Hermosa..... We had a great time skating together.

Skateboarding is fun, don't ever let it get like surfing where people won't even recognize good surfing when they see it, or be stoked on someone else's wave...
anywho....

Dinner and some wine with my sister and brother in law , grab the couch and make it home early....
Great day....

Good stuff

got some beers down in the sun yesturday..
My fins from Futures showed up!! Thanks Brian and the Futures guys!!
SO pumped to surf these on my "Hail Yeah" quad and the Tokoro's look insane!!!

I shot these two photos of Morgan at his house enroute to shoot Backdoor a while ago.
The other of Sean Davey and Zola are on the way to Pipe as well on the bike trail.
I like em....

Skateboarding!!!! Misc.

Surf is swamped out again...
smaller so the swamp factor is much more detrimental.
anywho... DId a selection of skate photos for a new client so here are a few i was showing them to get their ad campaign going...
enjoy.....
Brian Mank, Matt Elliot, Guy i shot at Ladera (Tony was it? i wrote it down), and Alex Watson at the Slab years ago..

Crimo sighting

saw Crimo lurking round the beach today...
didnt get a chance to chat with him but it would be interesting to see what he's been up to..
hope its' been surfing......

SO, my body is pretty much blasted from the first wipeout of the day yesturday morning.. it was awesome, but wish someone would have seen it...
pull in left against the grain on a 4-5ft shorey... race the line in the beautiful sun, arm out to the side to show the girth, racing out to the right on the doggy door watching a huge lip launching out only to clip me! the initial impact spread me out like a starfish, impacting the water hard,tweeking out my right hip and leg, then pretzeling me summersaulting me 3 times...

damn... it hurt.. i got banged up bad....my arm is sore too.hahah...

Paddled out with Larry this morning again but its a totlly different day... its almond barrels and not that good... nice to be out anyway....

phone rings at 8am... Hello Ashton whats up....
"where you at?" he says.." I got some shoes for ya!!!"

run outside! what???!?!!

THANKS BROHOG!!!! What a amazing group of shoes from an amazing friend!!! SO BLESSED.....
YEAH... stoked.... These shoes rip and what a Birthday Present!!! woooohooooooooooo my feet are praising the ground Ashton and the etnies gang walk on for this!!! hahah

thanks Ashton!!!!! ALOHA...

happy man

Larry Beard has been swimming lately and nailed a few really fun shots from out front..
I am soooo blessed to be able to walk down some stairs in front of my house and surf...
It is what i always have wanted and worked hard to obtain...
thanks for shooting Larry....
BLESSED!!!

stretchin....

tons of stretchin goin on now a days... Im gettin older and have to stretch before i surf or skate... gnarly..
it sucks but oh well.. Blessed i can still skate........

I haven't shot the past day or two cause i have been surfing and tryin to get back in shape.....
I will be on the computer today goin through photos and i have been shuffling 35mm slides for the past week (sorry no scanner to show u the imagery) then tryin to sneek out for a session when the tide drops out a tad....

will update with photos when it pertains.......i just don't put crap out to put crap out...


HAHAHAHAA and ending with THAT negativity this morning, its now 11:30 am and it went down like this...
8:30 this morning and i just blog updated as usual
8:40 coffee kicks in and matt Wybenga and Russ Hennings ( my bestest buddys) come walkin up and say its doable! and Larry Beard our buddy photographer was out shooting..
8:42 I look at my facebook and see the shots Larry got from the day before in small surf...
WHAT?!???????!!!!!!! He nailed this MEAN shot of me traveling out front of my house!!! SO PUMPED..

8:55 Grab my wetty and i am out there!!!
9:am Lined up with Larry who was swimming again like 3 times.... SUPER fun with air sections, the works....

11:30 Updating blog....LIFE IS GOOD!!!!!!!!!
Photo from Monday by Larry Beard

Tryin to do right....

No real words of wisdom or insight here today....
was writing something but then felt insignificant.....

was a gorgeous sunset yesturday, hung out with my sister and her husband which was fun... lazy sunday....
stoked....


insert mental sunset photo here:

Texas surf

Not much goin on this morning.. High tide, surf in other parts of the state just not out front...
hurt my foot a little doin a floater so i am takin it easy.. yet again.... ugh...
oh well... at least i have feet huh?!
Here is some shots from Texas on a cold day... Frank and Tripp Howse...
enjoy