So i have been surfing with a guy and we are kinda friends now...FRED..... We enjoy left barrels off a rock and glassy conditions....
I am so blessed and grateful that I paddled back out a second time today...
The water was warm and glassy, i mean really glassy....
A few choice nugs were popping up here and again..... I got a few and popped a couple lofty little airs.... after one said air and having my board retrieved by a young kid enjoyin the shore pound and exchanging a huge high five and a thanks the grom exclaimed in acceptance " THAT WAS AWESOME!!!"
This totally made my day........
I proceeded to get a few barrels and airs losing the board and occasionally interacting with the young man throughout the session as he retreived my board or as i would run past after a glassy curl barrel.
WOW..... this is what i have always wanted and worked for..... a nice pad, honest work and some surfin out front of my house....
thanks California....
