my good friend and legendary shooter Vince Cavataio got these of me surfing it..
and YES... it is extremely scary at all times out there and very very dangerous..
but a monk seal was cruisng through the lineup all day which is very rare and i was sharing waves with legendary pipeliner Derek Ho and just having an amzing morning :)
thank you for all the help, love and continued support tthis year... I have never had a shot (especially from the water out there) so i am THRILLED hahah now i just gotta get one in a really big barrel! :) :) :)
and got to see my friend from Guatemala and hang out.. she shot some fun photos skating my friends backyard ramp.. :)
