Been workin hard and finally slipped out for a few waves of my own this morning..
A few turned into a handful which quickly turned into a session...
I was blessed to pick this one off and get through it...
so stoked..
Randomly met Ryan Faulk on the beach after coming in after this wave... he announced he was injured and couldn't surf.. He was out for a stint and picked up a camera...
I am so stoked he did and got these fun shots of me
..
aloha!!!