Spent all day sanding boards, painting barrells and enjoyin the nice day outside..
Took the Smith boys to BBQ and called it an early nite...
Upcoming show and hopefully some surf this week..
I painted this barrel cause its the one i got the deepest best barrell of my career in Texas!!!!
The thing literally moved around on me and bowled so perfect with my arms stretched out to show how wide this one was..
Came out clean and even screamed at the top of my lungs.... GScott was shootin and ran to the other side as i shot through the pier... I literaly stopped and just sat on the other side realizing what an amazing wave that was....
I cannot fathom how sick and perfect it was... I can still see every part of it as if that 5 seconds took 10 minutes to execute...
I wish my brain would slow down more beautiful things like that in my life...
I literally cried out in the lineup that day as i surfed easily into the 8 hour mark..I knew how special it really was that day and how blessed i was to have the ability to harness those waves and make the most outta them.. .. This was truly a day to go down in the books and such an amazing homecoming.. Frank Floyd gave me my first wave of the day and that was a perfect one... I have never seen or been in so many beautiful texas barrells.. much less on one day!!!